This is the next update of Nev and Kristy our team during execution of the expedition Oasis trans Africa and a few members of the group to their stories and tales of their adventure
GHANA -. Katie ... ..
My first thought when we crossed the border with Burkina Faso to Ghana was that it was so good to be able to speak English again after 2 months of struggle with french. It was also the first predominantly Christian country, we were from Spain. It was immediately apparent the large number of Pentecostal, Presbyterian, Baptist, Evangelist (etc. etc.) churches on the sides of roads and names of stores that are almost exclusively something to do with God or Jesus as "Jesus lives Hair Salon "or" Praise the Lord electrical goods. "
the moment we crossed the border, we were traveling almost directly south until we reached the coast. from mid Ghana from us have hit the damp climate suddenly what was a real shock to the system. any small amount of effort seemed to bring on extreme sweating ... more reason to seek a fresh beer whenever possible.
Mole National Park was one of our first destinations in Ghana and an opportunity for the first spotting wildlife on our trip Although animals are rare compared to parks in southern Africa. for those who see their first elephants in their natural habitat, it was always going to be an exciting time. We were not disappointed. The moment we arrived at the camping area, perched on a rocky escarpment above the trees dotted plains We spotted a family of elephants wallow in the big muddy water hole below us, surrounded by grazing antelope. There was a pool (the first of our trip) and a bar with a perfect view of the environment so naturally we spent the afternoon watching the wildlife below us and the occasional warthog who walked by a few meters from us.
Kumasi, a city in central Ghana, used to be the capital of the Asante kingdom; one of the most powerful nations in West Africa in the mid 19th century. It still oozes with the traditions and customs of this tribe whose power was completely destroyed by the war with the British. Kumasi is also the largest market in West Africa and perhaps across the continent. It is a corrugated iron covered stalls maze sprawling over a large area dissected by a line of disused railway and spilling into the surrounding streets. The market is easy to find as all roads seem to lead to him and every man, woman and child seems to work or away from it. Once inside, the women and girls swarm like lines of ants weaving around obstacles on the tracks and anything in their path. The balance of the most incredibly bulky and heavy loads on their heads with grace and apparent ease. There is little choice once inside, but to join one of these columns and move at their own pace until you find a duck in the corner and take a break! There is very clearly defined areas on the market; fresh fruits and vegetables, fabric and sewing, gluing cheap jewelry, linen, dried fish and other meats, etc. There was always the exception, however, as when we met a nail bar in the middle of the dried fish section - a very bad place to have a pedicure! It was not least the tourism market, but really for the basics of daily life and necessities so there were no worries vendors, as curiosity and welcoming smiles. 6 of us went together had an amazing experience to walk around, but it was crowned when we came across a hair braiding stall. Both Josh and Steven were both long mullets topped sports they decided would be perfect for corn rows. The ladies of the stall and the spectators thought it was hilarious (apparently men are not their braided hair!).
Cape Coast is a city on the Ghana coast west of Accra, which houses one of the largest slave forts in the country's history. We escaped to a resort not far from here while we waited for our Nigerian visas to be processed in Accra that gave us the chance to visit this haunting reminder of the participation of Britain in the slave trade. Entering an airless dungeons where 0 slaves were held up to 2 months in near total darkness with only the smallest window was an eye opening experience. Strong men were kept in chains so that they could not fight and they had to stay in their own feces that built up to a maximum of about half a meter high during their stay 2 months . Many died in these conditions with hunger, diarrhea and diseases and their bodies were left to decompose until the slaves were ready to be shipped. I can not even imagine how the smell would.
In stark contrast to the dark history of the slave trade, the beach where we stayed was one of the nicest people I know. Coconut trees swaying in the breeze on the white sand that slopes down to the waves of the Gulf of Guinea - the ideal place to spend a few days before returning to Accra and beyond along the coast to our next country - Togo.
TOGO - by Amy ...
Togo is quickly running list to become my new favorite African nation .. I even an official resident of Lome! "Losing the North" (Losing Nord) is a French term used to describe a situation in which a person feels completely lost, confused or bamboozled! There is no better way to describe the sudden change in culture between Ghana and Togo Christian dominated Voodoo. Well, when you are lost, the best way to find north is to explore the madness! So knowing nothing about voodoo took off most of us experience
famous fetish market of Togo. This market offers a plethora of unique and disgusting dead things that people travel far for medicinal purposes. A cat skin was flared to dry in the sun, gorilla feet, heads cheetah, antelope heads, and various other heads all sitting in rows neatly stacked ready and waiting for avid consumers. voodoo priests were on hand to cure ailments that we may have had yet none of us could understand how these heads could help anything! The experience was unique to say the least and the energy of the place was strange, but not as scary as you might expect. At Lake Togo some of us continued our exploration of Voodoo with a visit to Togoville to meet Mama Kponu the Supreme priestess of voodoo in Togo. To go and see her, we needed to be dressed appropriately. Traditionally, this would be naked wearing only a grass skirt. Nowadays, this means coated with a film without showing cotton clothes. We all pay our tops and participated in a ritual of applause for permission to enter. She sat with us and answered all our questions about Voodoo. We have all been blessed and bracelets on our wrists tied. This is to ward off evil and allow safe passage wherever we go!
Other members of the group enjoyed the quiet day at a local beer kiosk on the side of the road with a table and chickens during the execution Amuck! They enjoyed a spaghetti meal with omelettes on top. proved interesting bathroom breaks! In some cases, the owner dig individual holes for its guests, in other cases, people are led to a cement floor and can not help but wonder how it works!
While in Togo, we also enjoyed meeting many friends and no embassy officials so friendly that we put on the arduous task of obtaining visas for the next countries. Mr. & Mrs. DRC was friendly and a surcharge, helped us get through all the paperwork needed to travel to their country, while Mr. Gabon was a little more challenge. After a few days, some schmoozing and patience, we were ready to go ...
BENIN - .. By Katie ...
Benin, like its neighbor Togo , a culture steeped in voodoo and fetish and a horrible past in the form of the slave trade. is nowhere more apparent that the city of Ouidah, where we visited the Python Temple (with live snakes) and the home of the big boss of Voodoo (the inhabitants called the "Vatican Voodoo"). Ouidah was also home to the Slave Route - a four-kilometer sand track that was market by millions of slaves of different attachment points in the city to the coast, where they would be shipped away to many places in the whole world. Some of us have walked this road with a guide who has the experience to life, showing we land marks such as forgetting the tree - the slaves were forced to walk around it to symbolize forget their past life , religion and culture ... "to become a people without a will to react or rebel" When the track reaches the sea there is a huge arch. - the door of no return - a monument decorated with disturbing depictions of slaves who leave their country in chains (on the outgoing side of the monument) and return as ghosts themselves on the incoming side.
We conducted our way in Cotonou, the largest city of Benin, looking for our campsite for the night. We were first thwarted by low sling power lines which made our preferred route impassable so we undertook a long detour that took us directly the center of the bustling city. Walk next to a railway line we passed a police checkpoint but we waved down, it was only after we had that we came out into the street and looked at us, then frantically began to blow his whistle. It was as ineffective Nev leads to unconscious. Soon the flashing blue lights appeared and we stopped to find out what the problem was. The enraged policeman Nev informed that we had been conducted in a "free zone truck" (not that there were signs to let us know it). He confiscated truck license and papers Nev (without which we could not leave the country) and told him to report to the police station. The next morning, after a little help from our campsite owner who told police that tourists should be greeted not bothered, papers and permits were returned safely - not without a request for contribution to maintenance of the police station! Unsurprisingly, it always seems to come to the money.
After this short delay, we were on our way to Ganvie village on stilts, probably the biggest tourist attraction of Benin. We piled into boats that took us out about 20 minutes in the lake where the village is. There are no roads only streams and everyone travels by canoe. The market stalls were canoes stacked with tomatoes and onions in the middle of an open space of the water and the houses are precariously balanced on poles over the water. Unfortunately, some people here have demanded money aggressively and others hid their faces to avoid photos that marred the experience. It was clear that tourism here is not having a positive effect on local populations and likely the money we paid to visit the village was not filtering down to the locals, but someone in charge of pockets.
Our final afternoon in Benin was spent trying in vain to reach the border with Nigeria, but the convoy of huge trucks while moving at a snail's pace meant it was impossible. With completely lacking in potential campsites road and dusk is fast approaching we had no choice but to retire to an area of land in the village. Given the ability of people in Africa appear out of nowhere, even the farthest campsite, we were pretty sure we would have visitors here. Indeed, people immediately began to appear from the door and out of the fields. Men, women and children, all gathered to watch the bizarre spectacle we put up camp and soon the little children were collecting firewood and hammering in tent pegs as they all wanted to participate. We gave them popcorn and clothes, they gave us oranges and pineapple. Mothers topless fed their babies while watching us eat; the children were allowed to stay out past 10:00 p.m. when normally they would be fast asleep much earlier. A man asked why men were doing the cooking and dishes, because it is unprecedented in their culture, another told us that we were a sign from God that whites had never stopped in their village in living memory. It was quite a very memorable evening for everyone.
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Look out for the next episode and many other tales and adventures ahead of Africa soon!
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